23 / 26
allied
academies
Journal of Biotechnology and Phytochemistry
Volume 1 Issue 3
Chemistry World 2017
Page 75
November 13-15, 2017 Athens, Greece
7
th
World Congress on
Chemistry
Organogels: Original Materials for Therapeutic
and Dermo-Cosmetic Applications
Plamen KIRILOV
Claude Bernard University, France
Nowadays, several therapeutic, cosmetic and dermo-
cosmetic studies consider gelling agents to produce
innovative face and body care formulations. Organogels are
an interesting perspective because they possess the ability to
confer hardness due to their fibrous structure, and to allow
new organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the
final product. These formulations are semi-solid systems, in
which an organic liquid phase of cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic
interest (soybean, almond, emollients, …) is immobilized by
a three dimensional network composed of self-assembled,
intertwined gelator fibers. The most commonly employed
oganogelators in cosmetics are polymers, but these are not
the only gelling agents used. Indeed, smaller molecules, Low
Molecular-Mass Organic Gelators Organogelators (LMOGs),
may also present similar properties towards organic liquids.
LMOGs are frequently used in cosmetology for their desirable
physical organization properties within the oil phase or their
capacity to jellify the organic liquids in smaller quantities (in
the range 0.1– 10 wt%).
In this study, the concept of organogel preparation
and characterization from vegetable oils and LMOG
(1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene sorbitol or DBS and 12-hydroxystearic
acid or HSA) agreed for therapeutic, cosmetic and dermo-
cosmetic applications, has been described and their
physicochemical properties (mechanical strength, physical
stability, phase transition temperatures, ...) have been
investigated.The results showthat thedeterminationof LMOG
proportion allows modulating the organogel properties. The
use of LMOG is beneficial for the formulation consistency
and texture, conferring good physical and chemical stability
of the final product.
plamen.kirilov@univ-lyon1.frJ Biotech and Phyto 2017