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N o v e m b e r 1 2 - 1 3 , 2 0 1 8 | R o m e , I t a l y
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Chromatography 2018 & Satellite 2018 Journal of Chemical Technology and Applications| Volume 2
&
CHROMATOGRAPHY AND SEPARATION SCIENCE
World Congress on
SATELLITE AND SPACE MISSIONS
International Conference and Exhibition on
Joint Event on
OF EXCELLENCE
IN INTERNATIONAL
MEETINGS
YEARS
Tonetti C, J Chem Tech App 2018, Volume 2
LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY-MASS
SPECTROMETRY APPLIED TO THE
IDENTIFICATION AND QUANTIFICATION
OF ANIMAL HAIR FIBERS IN TEXTILE
PRODUCTS
In this work, liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray mass spec-
trometry (LC/ESI-MS) was applied to the identification and quantification
of animal hair fibers in textile products. International producers of textiles in
cashmere and other specialty fibers requires suitable analytical methods for
the assessment of fiber composition to protect consumers and defend them-
selves from common frauds, especially when cheaper fibers like wool and yak
are blended with expensive fibers like cashmere. The animal fibers identifica-
tion by traditional microscopic methods is often subjective, depending largely
on the expertise of operator. In this case, the greatest difficulty is to distin-
guish and quantify yak from cashmere fibers because their external morphol-
ogy is very similar. LC/ESI-MS analysis was successfully used to discriminate
wool, cashmere and yak in textile materials by a proteomic approach. Kera-
tin extracted from animal fibers was digested by trypsin, and the proteolytic
peptides were analyzed by LC/ESI-MS to identify peptide markers, specifically
and univocally, linked to the species of origin of the fibers. Several suitable
peptide markers were identified and validated by many analyses of, known
and unknown, wool/cashmere/yak blends at various stages of manufacture
(fibers, slivers, yarns, fabrics, and raw materials) and with different treatments
(dyed, depigmented, bleached, finished forms), showing 100% specificity and
100% selectivity. Some peptides were also used for the quantification of the
different species in mixed fibers by LC/ESI-MS. Validation experiments and
blind tests confirmed their ability to act as very specific qualitative and quan-
titative markers. Limit of detection (LOD) was estimated to be 3% and the pre-
cision of the analysis was always very good. Finally, it was demonstrated that
bleaching, dyeing and depigmentation did not affect significantly the qualita-
tive and quantitative analysis. The proteomic method based on LC/ESI-MS has
become an international standard named “ISO 20418-1 Textiles - Qualitative
and quantitative proteomic analysis of some animal hair fibres Part 1: Peptide
detection using LC-ESI-MS with protein reduction”.
Biography
Tonetti C worked as researcher at CNR-ISMAC
of Biella (National Research Council–Institute for
Macromolecular Studies). Main research activities
regards the development of innovative methods
(like UPLC/ESI-MS) for animal hair fibers identifi­
cation in textile products, the production of keratin
nanofiber membranes and chitosan composite
materials for air and water depuration and the
study of new finishing processes (like antimicro-
bial finishing, nanoparticles). She worked also on
projects regarding the eco-toxicological qualities of
textile products.
Tonetti C
CNR-ISMAC, Italy